When Prada unveiled a flat leather sandal during its Spring/Summer 2026 men’s show in Milan, the silhouette felt familiar – unmistakably echoing the Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted Indian sandal with centuries of history. What followed was swift backlash, with critics accusing the Italian luxury house of cultural appropriation and failing to acknowledge the craft communities behind the design. Now, Prada is attempting to recalibrate. The brand will launch a limited-edition collection of “Made in India” sandals, produced in collaboration with Indian artisans and state-backed development corporations. The collection marks a notable shift in direction – from silent borrowing to visible partnership.
From Backlash to “Made in India”
The controversy emerged after images from Milan Fashion Week circulated online, prompting artisans, historians and consumers to point out the resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals – a style traditionally produced in parts of Maharashtra and Karnataka and protected under India’s Geographical Indication (GI) framework. The absence of credit or context struck a nerve, especially given the growing scrutiny of how luxury brands draw from non-Western cultures.In response, Prada acknowledged the inspiration and entered into agreements with Indian artisan bodies, including LIDCOM and LIDKAR. The result is a limited run of roughly 2,000 pairs, handmade in India using traditional techniques, then distributed globally through about 40 Prada stores and online channels starting February 2026. Each pair will retail at approximately €800 ($930).
What the Collaboration Entails
Prada says the initiative extends beyond production. The partnership, structured over three years, includes training programs for artisans, exposure to Prada’s design processes and opportunities for select craftsmen to visit the brand’s academy in Italy. The company has described the project as a multi-million-euro investment intended to preserve craft while integrating it into Prada’s supply chain.
However, the collaboration stops short of deeper structural commitments. Prada has indicated that it does not currently plan to open manufacturing facilities or retail clothing stores in India, and there has been no confirmation of long-term profit-sharing arrangements tied to the product’s global success.
Why This Shift Matters
Prada’s pivot highlights a broader reckoning within luxury fashion: who benefits when heritage becomes high fashion. Kolhapuri chappals typically sell locally for a fraction of Prada’s luxury price point, underscoring the stark imbalance between cultural value and commercial reward.
For critics, collaboration is a meaningful first step – but not a complete solution. True equity, they argue, would involve sustained economic participation, intellectual credit and long-term investment in artisan communities, rather than one-off collections sparked by public pressure. Still, the move signals a growing awareness within luxury that inspiration alone is no longer enough. In an era of heightened transparency and cultural literacy, brands are increasingly being asked not just to reference heritage – but to share power, credit and value with the communities that created it.
